Hurricane Preparedness

With hurricane season looming the following is just a general reminder of things we need to consider in preparation for a storm.

Preparing for a Hurricane

dentify a shelter. For public health reasons, many emergency shelters cannot accept pets. Find out which motels and hotels in the area you plan to evacuate to allow pets -- well in advance of needing them. There are also a number of guides that list hotels/motels that permit pets and could serve as a starting point. Include your local animal shelter's number in your list of emergency numbers -- they might be able to provide information concerning pets during a disaster.

Take pet food, bottled water, medications, veterinary records, cat litter/pan, can opener, food dishes, first aid kit and other supplies with you in case they are not available later. While the sun is still shining, consider packing a "pet survival" kit that could be easily deployed if disaster hits.

Make sure identification tags are up to date and securely fastened to your pet's collar. If possible, attach the address and/or phone number of your evacuation site. If your pet gets lost, his tag is his ticket home. Make sure you have a current photo of your pet for identification purposes. This is one of the most important steps. Make sure your greyhounds have their GPA tags on them.

Make sure you have a secure pet carrier, leash and/or harness for your pet so that if he panics, he can't escape. Fences can come down very easily requiring alternative methods for potty breaks.

If you will be staying in your home during the storm, make sure you factor in water required by pets into how much you need to stockpile. Also, make sure you have plenty of dog food, as you never know when you will be able to get out to purchase more.

NOTE: Some animal shelters will provide temporary foster care for owned pets in times of disaster, but this should be considered only as a last resort. Don't forget your rescue group can sometimes help make arrangements for the care of your pets during an emergency

During a Hurricane

Bring your pets inside immediately.

Have newspapers on hand for sanitary purposes. Make sure pets are properly hydrated especially if electric service is out and it is warm. Animals have instincts about severe weather changes and will often isolate themselves if they are afraid. Bringing them inside early can stop them from running away. Never leave a pet outside or tied up during a storm. Provide pets afraid of thunderstorms or rain a safe place to go such as a closet or kennel set up in an internal room in the house. Separate dogs and cats. Even if your dogs and cats normally get along, the anxiety of an emergency can cause pets to act irrationally. Keep small pets away from cats and dogs.

After a Hurricane

If after a disaster you have to leave town, take your pets with you. Pets are unlikely to survive on their own. Again, contact GPA, many of us stay behind and may be able to help keep your pets safe (not just greyhounds)

In the first few days after the disaster, leash your pets when they go outside. Always maintain close contact. Familiar scents and landmarks may be altered and your pet may become confused and lost. In addition, snakes and other dangerous animals may be brought into the area with flood areas. Downed power lines are a hazard. Fences could be compromised and the last thing needed after a mess like Katrina is a lost dog.

The behavior of your pets may change after an emergency. Normally quiet and friendly pets may become aggressive or defensive. Watch animals closely.

This article is for informational purposes only.
***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care or consultations with your attorney.

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What will happen to your pets?

Hardly a day goes by without a commercial about life insurance policies, wills or other methods of planning for a loved ones future without you. We understand the importance in doing this for children, but what about our pets? Most of us take for granted that we will outlive them. The best estimate is that at least half a million pets are put to sleep annually because they are predeceased by their owners. These are not stray or wild animals; these are the beloved pets that share our beds, our homes and our lives. It is difficult for us to be rational at the loss of one of our cherished pets, but as humans, we have the ability to reason - they’re in a better place, they’re no longer in pain, etc. Pets cannot reason this way and are confused as to why their lives have changed. They wonder why they have suddenly been put in a shelter. Sometimes these are older pets that have little chance of being placed. A way to avoid this is to arrange for your pets in your will. We like to think that family members would tend to our dogs when the truth is, most have no space, resources or desire to have additional pets. This is especially true for those of us with multiple pets.

Most of us are relatively familiar with the traditional will, but don’t stop to think about how this affects our pets. Although they are a primary focus of our daily lives, they are often little more than an afterthought in relation to legal documents and estate planning in general. Can you provide for pets in a will? This one is much more complicated and cannot be answered with a simple yes or no.

Pets are considered property under the law so they can be included as part of a will. They can be left to someone specific. They cannot, however; be the beneficiary of a will. In simple terms, a pet cannot be left your estate (money, etc) since they cannot legally own property. In addition, there is another problem with only providing for your pets in your will. A will is not in effect until your death. Depending on your estate, it may be weeks, months or even years before the details of the estate are finalized. What happens to your pets during this period or if you are incapacitated? In the midst of difficult times, pets can be neglected or forgotten without written instructions in the hands of appropriate caregivers. Even if you choose to go this route, you should put something in place for emergencies other than death and before your will is finalized.

Another consideration is that a will allows you to leave your pets to someone, but typically does not detail anything beyond that. There are no stipulations as to their care or lifestyle. In fact, the person who inherited your cherished pet could abandon them the following day and still meet their requirements under the law.

Obviously, it can be difficult to adequately provide for pets in wills. Progress has been made and slowly, the legal system is realizing that many of us consider our pets more akin to children than inanimate objects. It is believed that the laws will continue to offer more assistance to pet parents to ensure our furry friends remain well cared for, no matter what. 

This article is for informational purposes only.
***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care or consultations with your attorney.

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Toenails Falling Off?

Toenail issues seem to plague many greyhound owners. While SLO isn't the cause of them all it seems to be quite prevalent in the greyhound community.  

This article was written by Suzanne Stack, DVM

TOENAILS FALLING OFF
PEMPHIGUS AKA SYMMETRICAL LUPOID ONCHODYSTROPHY

Pemphigus/SLO as it occurs in the greyhound involves the nails only, there are no other systemic signs - though there may certainly be a poor appetite and/or lethargy associated with the chronic pain. All of the greyhound specific texts and articles I've ever read refer to this autoimmune condition as "pemphigus." These sources include Care of the Racing Greyhound (Blythe, Gannon, Craig), Canine Sports Medicine & Surgery (Bloomberg, Dee, Taylor), and The Racing Greyhound - Management, Medicine & Surgery (Herron, Gannon). On the other hand, a biopsy submitted to any commercial lab will be given the diagnosis of "SLO". Properly, as one of the IDEXX pathologists explained it to me, SLO involves nails and so is the correct histopathological diagnosis, whereas pemphigus involves footpads and interdigital skin. So "pemphigus" vs. "SLO" is unimportant and a matter of semantics; we are talking about the same clinical syndrome. While toenail pemphigus/SLO is an oddball diagnosis in other breeds, it should go straight to the top of the list in greyhounds experiencing multiple nail loss.  

While it is, of course, possible to get secondary infections in unhealthy pemphigus nails, you cannot resolve the problem without treating the underlying autoimmune disorder. Too many people spend too much time and money treating pemphigus as a "fungal" (the #1 misdiagnosis) or "bacterial" infection with foot soaks, topicals, and expensive oral medications. Common sense will tell you that culturing a nail as a means of diagnosis is quite likely to yield any number of cooties as greyhounds use their nails to walk across the (unsterile) ground.

Unfortunately, the only way to definitively diagnose pemphigus/SLO is by amputating the whole P3 (end toe bone, including nail, just as you declaw a cat). A pathologist can make the diagnosis only by observing the skin/nail junction. The appearance/course of pemphigus in greyhounds is so classic that I feel it's a real waste of time/money, not to mention unnecessary pain and disfigurement for the poor greyhound, to go through this in the name of proving a diagnosis.  

At Arizona Adopt A Greyhound, when we see one of these, the adopter gets a bottle of 4 mg chlorphenerimine tablets and a bottle of 5 mg prednisone tablets for treatment as outlined in Care of the Racing Greyhound. I do alter the dose at the end so that the dog winds up on prednisone every other day, which is healthier on the body.

5 mg pred and 2 mg chlorphenerimine every 8 hours for 5 days, then
5 mg pred and 2 mg chlorphenerimine every 12 hours for 10 days, then
2.5 mg pred and 2 mg chlorphenerimine every 8 hours for 10 days, then
2.5 mg pred and 2 mg chlorphenerimine every 12 hours for 10 days, then
10 mg pred every other day and 2 mg chlorphenerimine every 12 hours long term

Once healthy nails have regrown, it may be possible to wean the dog off of prednisone entirely. Though it takes 4-5 months for new nails to regrow, often there is a dramatic improvement in comfort within the first few weeks of treatment. My experience has been that the sooner you get on top of these, the better the chance for regrowth of normal nails. Chronic untreated pemphigus greyhounds will always have crumbly stumpy nails, but at least treatment even at that point will stop them from continuing to lose nails.  It is also worth checking thyroid levels and supplementing greyhounds that are unequivocally low. Many if not most greyhounds have marginally low thyroid levels normally - I certainly don't advocate putting all of these on Soloxine.  

This article is for informational purposes only.
***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care.

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Plants that can be toxic to pets.

Here is a list compiled of plants that can be toxic to pets. Amount ingested and weight of the pet plays a big part in toxicity. This information is not meant to be used for diagnostic purposes nor to take the place of actual veterinary care.

Most Poisonous ***
Moderately Poisonous **
Somewhat Poisonous *

Name	Parts	Clinical Signs
Apricot	Stem, bark, seed pits	Stomach irritation, abdominal pain, abnormal heart rate and rhythm, convulsions, coma, some death.
Azalea (Rhododendron spp.) *	All parts, mostly leaves	Stomach irritation, abdominal pain, abnormal heart rate and rhythm, convulsions, coma, some death.
Bird of Paradise	Fruit, seeds
Boston Ivy	All parts
Caladium	All parts
Creeping Charlie (Glecoma hederacea L.)	All parts	Sweating, drooling, usually not fatal.
Castor Bean (Ricinus communis)***	All part but mostly seeds, if chewed	Nausea, abdominal pain, bloody diarrhea, tenesmus, dehydration, shortness of breath, excessive thirst, weakness, muscle twitching, convulsions, coma.
Choke Cherry (Prunus virginiana)***	Leaves, seed pits, stems, bar
Daffodil (Narcissus spp.)	Bulbs
Daphne	Berries, bark, leaves
English Ivy (Hedera helix L.)***	Leaves, berries	Stomach irritation, diarrhea, troubled breathing, coma, death.
Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea L.)*	Leaves, seeds, flowers
Glacier Ivy	Leaves, berries
Heartleaf	All parts
Hemlock, Water (Cicuta maculata L.)***	All parts, root and root stalk	Dilated pupils, frothing at the mouth, spasms muscles spasms, restlessness, convulsions, and death (within 15 min to 2 hours)
Hyacinth (Hyacinth orientalis)	Bulbs, leaves, flowers	Colic, vomiting and diarrhea, usually not fatal.
Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.)	Leaves, buds	Irritation and inflammation of the digestive tract, diarrhea, bloody stool.
Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum L.)	All parts, unripe fruit
Johnsongrass (Sorghum halepense)***	Leaves and stems, especially young plants.	Breathing problems, severe anxiety, convulsions, coma, death. Intravenous antidote exsist.
Jimson Weed (Datura stramonium L.)***	All parts	Rapid pulse, rapid breathing, dilated pupils, restlessness, nervousness, twitching, frequent urination, diarrhea, depression, weight loss, weak pulse, convulsions, coma, death.
Jonquil	Bulbs
Lantana (Lantana camara L.)***	Leaves and berries	Sluggishness, weakness, bloody diarrhea. In severe cases, death may occur in 2 to 4 days.
Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis)	All parts
Mandrake
Mistletoe	Berries
Morning Glory	Seeds
Marble Queen	All parts
Nightshade (Solanum spp.)***	All parts	Hallucinations, severe intestinal disturbances, diarrhea, drowsiness, numbness, dilated pupils, trembling, labored breathing, nasal discharge, rapid heartbeat, weak pulse, incoordination, paralysis or severe shaking of the rear legs, rapid heart rate, bloat, can be fatal.
Nephthytis, Arrowhead Vine	All parts
Oats (Avena sativa)	All parts	Breathing difficulty, skin irritation, paralysis, convulsions, death (rare).
Pigweed, Redroot (Amaranthus retroflexus)***	Leaves, stems, roots.	Troubled breathing, trembling, weakness, coma, death.
Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima)	Leaves, flowers	Not lethal, but can cause skin, mouth, eye, and stomach irritation.
Pokeweed, Inkberry**	All parts	Colic, diarrhea, blood in stool, rare cases anemia, and possible death.
Parlor Ivy	All parts
Red Sage	Green berries
Rhubarb (Rheum rhaponticum)**	Leaves	Staggering, trembling, breathing difficulties, weakness, diarrhea, increased drinking and urinating, death.
Red Princess	All parts
Saddleleaf	All parts
Tulip (Tulipa spp.)	Bulbs
Umbrella Plant	All parts
Yew, English (Taxus baccata) and Japanese (Taxus cuspidata Sieb. & Zucc.)***	n/a (? ed.)	Breathing problems, trembling, weakness, heart problems, stomach upset, very sudden death.

***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care.

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Hound Myths

The following is an article of Greyhound Myths written by Suzanne Stack, DVM. Permission has been granted to reprint this article for our update and web site.

Hound Myths

Suzanne Stack, DVM

Older greyhounds need low protein “senior” diets.

• With greyhounds, we’re usually trying to keep weight on the oldsters, not off them.
• Low protein diets may cause muscle wasting and weight loss.

Greyhounds with high creatinines are going into kidney failure and need low protein “kidney” diets.

• Increased creatinine does not equal kidney disease if the BUN and urine concentration are normal.
• A 2000 Auburn study found that greyhound creatinines normally run up to 1.6X “other dog” creatinine.

Greyhounds with diarrhea should be switched to high fiber food (i.e. W/D).

• This approach often backfires with greyhounds, who do better on meat based diets.
• Grain based diets or the simple switch from racing diets to kibble are often the cause of diarrhea.

BARF (Bones And Raw Food) diet is dangerous, not adequate, etc.

• If you're willing to do the research and “cooking,” BARF is superior nutrition.
• Other benefits - clean teeth, firm stools, may help with allergies.

Alabama Rot only happens to track greyhounds from eating the raw 4D meat.

• The strain of e. coli that causes Alabama Rot is found in everything from apples to alfalfa sprouts. Feed several small meals daily / feed from raised feeders / make him eat slow / to prevent bloat.
• Bloat is mostly genetic and much more common in show (AKC) greyhound lines.
• Racers gobble one meal daily from a bowl on the floor and rarely bloat.

Leave him in the hospital until he eats.

• Greyhounds are sensitive dogs.
• Unless they're doing something for him there that you can't do at home, he'll likely eat better at home where he's happy and you can bribe him with tempting cookery.
• Take him in for daily rechecks if needed.

The fecal is negative - he doesn't have worms.

• Fecals are often negative, especially for whipworms.
• If a greyhound has had diarrhea ever since he came off the track, de-worm with Panacur before doing further diagnostics. Don't have the $1,000 case of whipworms.

Greyhounds get so many vaccinations at the track that adoption groups should not revaccinate.

• It's hard to count on vaccines that were supposedly given - requirements vary tremendously from state to state.
• I prefer 2 consecutive years of “known shots,” then go to every 3 years if that is your preference.

Dogs need booster vaccines every year.

• Many veterinarians and a majority of veterinary schools have safely gone to every 3 year vaccinations.

Yearly dentals are the best way to keep your greyhound's teeth healthy.

• Brushing at least every other day is the best way to keep your greyhound's teeth healthy.
• BARF, chewies, turkey necks - all is preferable to knocking off tartar once yearly while the dog spends the other 9-10 months with dental disease.
• Dentals should be done when needed, but should not be the mainstay of dental care.

Do all you can to save bad teeth - you don't want to lose them.

• Bad teeth hurt - get them out of there!
• Bad teeth form a nidus for infection which can damage kidneys and heart valves.
• Dogs with bad teeth often feel like new dogs once they're extracted.

His heart is enlarged.

• The greyhound heart is normally much bigger than the heart of other dogs.
• There is a huge left ventricular hypertrophy (thickening of wall) - same with marathon runners.
• An ultrasound can differentiate normal from diseased if in doubt.

His heart rate is abnormally slow.

• he greyhound's heart rate is slower than other dogs - again, due to athleticism.
• 60-90 is normal at rest, it may be faster if excited (like at the vet's office).

His blood pressure is high.

• Greyhounds often run blood pressures on the high end of normal (160,170,180).
• They can be higher if excited - again, an important consideration at the vet's office.

He needs a complete cardiac workup for this heart murmur.

• Low grade murmurs (I & II) are common in greyhounds - they are almost always benign.
• Take a chest x-ray if concerned (where you will see a “big heart!”).

Your greyhound has polycythemia.

• Greyhounds have a higher HCT or PCV than other dogs, normally in the 50's - 60's.
• HCT or PCV can easily go into the 70's if they're dehydrated.
• Actual polycythemia vera is a very rare disease.

Her platelets are abnormally low.

• Greyhounds can normally run low platelets - all the way down to 80,000 - 110,000.
• Ehrlichia can lower platelets (also lowers WBC and HCT/PCV) - titer if in doubt.

We need a bone marrow biopsy to see if this low WBC is cancer.

• Greyhounds normally run lower WBCs (3,000 - 10,000) than other dogs (7,500 - 15,000).
• An Auburn study of 50 retired racers (March 2000 Compendium) found a range of 1,800-14,600.

He can't have a TBD (tick borne disease), we don't have those around here.

• Greyhounds have a disproportionate incidence of TBDs due to their years on dog farms and in racing kennels, sharing ticks with greyhounds from all over the country.
• Ehrlichia can take 5-7 years following a tick bite to show symptoms.

Imizol is dangerous.

• Imizol is safe but not familiar to many veterinarians.
• Imizol is labeled to kill babesia but also kills ehrlichia.

A low T4 means she needs to be on thyroid supplement.

• Greyhounds normally run lower T4s than other breeds (about half is a good rule of thumb).
• They should not be on supplement unless there are clinical signs - too many greyhounds are needlessly on lifelong supplement.
• Use half of the normal dog dose.
• Sick dogs commonly have low T4s (“sick euthyroid”) - the dog is not hypothyroid.

Bald butts are because they're hypothyroid.

• The cause of bald thigh syndrome is unknown.
• Bald thighs are seen with both low and high thyroid levels.

Bald butts are from laying in crates at the track.

• Greyhounds who have never been crated or to the track have bald butts.

He has a toenail fungus.

• SLO (symmetrical lupoid onychodystrophy) aka “pemphigus” is the autoimmune condition that causes greyhounds to lose multiple nails.
• Treat as directed in Care of the Racing Greyhound.

This female is the first hermaphrodite I've ever seen! / This female has cancer.

• That red “button” at the vulva is clitoral hypertrophy from testosterone given at the track to keep females out of heat

Skin hemangiosarcomas in greyhounds are highly malignant.

• Skin hemangiosarcomas in “glabrous” (ventrally “nude” breeds such as greyhounds and Italian greyhounds) are solar induced and have a lower potential for metastasis.

I don't want to amputate (or euthanize) for bone cancer. I'll just make him comfortable for as long as possible (or . . . amputation is not the end of the world).

• one cancer is a constant, throbbing pain - the most intractable pain in veterinary medicine.
• The pain is not well controlled with meds - if it was, veterinarians wouldn't recommend amputation.
• Amputation is done simply to get the dog out of pain, it will not increase survival time.
• Only adding chemo will make him live longer.
• If not amputated, be generous with pain meds and be ready to euthanize.

I don't want to give Rimadyl, Deramaxx, etc. for bone cancer - it might damage his liver.

• Don't become hung up on the possibility of side effects - bone cancer does not have a long term. Give what it takes to keep him from hurting.
• Combine meds (NSAIDs, narcotics, Ultram, Fosamax, etc.)

She's not in pain - she just limps, has never cried out.

• If she does not put the foot down, it hurts!
• Poor appetite, panting, shaking, can't get comfortable, stops participating, and mostly, “that look in her eye” - all are signs of pain.
• Pathologic fractures (the bone breaks at the weak spot) are excruciatingly painful - euthanize before this can happen.

Dogs can't take Tylenol.

• Tylenol /codeine is one of the most common pain meds given to bone cancer/amputation patients.

That hind end weakness is probably hip dysplasia.

• Hip dysplasia is rare in greyhounds.
• Hind end problems are most likely lumbosacral stenosis in older greyhounds.

We sent the x-rays to a radiologist and he can't find a reason why she's limping either.

• Many things that cause limping aren't seen on x-rays (soft tissue, neuro, corns).
• A good orthopedic exam is key - an orthopedic surgeon is a good bet for finding obscure lamenesses.

***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care.

If you have a question for Howliweeze email it to

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Osteosarcoma

Most of us have faced osteosarcoma in one or more of our greyhounds, are dealing with it right nowor unfortunately will do so in the future. There are many opinions both personal and veterinarian about treatments andwhat should or shouldn't be done. The bottom line isthis is a personal choice, made only by those that love and care for the canine cancer victim.

Education wont change or get rid of osteosarcoma but perhaps it will help us cope. For allthat have lost to it, those currently fighting it, even those ofus that will fight it in the future, love and white light.

A young brindle boy, not mine, but very special to me nonetheless is fighting this battle........ This is for Jake.

USUAL SITES FOR OSTEOSARCOMA DEVELOPMENT

What is Osteosarcoma?

Osteosarcoma is by far the most common bone tumor of the dog, usually striking the leg bones of larger breeds. Osteosarcoma usually arises in middle aged or elderly dogs but can arise in a dog of any age with larger breeds tending to develop tumors at younger ages.

• Osteosarcoma can develop in any bone but the limbs account for 75-85% of affected bones. Osteosarcoma of the limbs is called “appendicular osteosarcoma.”

Osteosarcoma develops deep within the bone and becomes progressively more painful as it grows outward and the bone is destroyed from the inside out. The lameness goes from intermittent to constant over 1-3 months. Obvious swelling becomes evident as the tumor grows and normal bone is replaced by tumorous bone.

• Tumorous bone is not as strong as normal bone and can break with minor injury. This type of broken bone is called a “pathologic fracture” and may be the finding that confirms the diagnosis of bone tumor. Pathologic fractures will not heal and there is no point in putting on casts or attempting surgical stabilization.

How do we know my dog really has Osteosarcoma?

RADIOGRAPHS: One of the first steps in evaluating a persistent lameness is radiography (x-rays).Bone tumors are tender so it is usually clear what part of the limb should be radiographed. The osteosarcoma is creates some characteristic findings:

In most cases, radiography is all that is needed to make the diagnosis but sometimes there are ambiguities.

BIOPSY: A tiny section of bone can be removed for laboratory analysis. This type of analysis is considered to be absolute proof of diagnosis. The procedure is associated with some pain and our local oncologists have suggested that biopsy is not needed if the radiographs show an obvious bone tumor. If there is any question about the lesion on the radiographs, a bone biopsy should provide clear results.

Sometimes a bone tumor is surrounded by an area of bone inflammation and it may be difficult to get a diagnostic sample and several samples must be taken. These samples are too small to cause a pathologic fracture.

Amputation of the affected bone is recommended for any tumor involving bone. When the malignant structure has been removed, it is submitted for biopsy and the diagnosis confirmed at that time. Biopsy before amputation is felt to simply add a painful procedure to the patient and, if possible, is reserved for tissue already amputated.

What if it isn't Osteosarcoma?

The location and radiographic appearance of the osteosarcoma in the limb are quite classic but there are a few outside possibilities that should at least be mentioned. There are only a few other possible conditions that cause lytic lesions in bone: the chondrosarcoma, or the squamous cell carcinoma, or the synovial cell sarcoma.

CHONDROSARCOMA: Chondrosarcoma is a cartilage tumor, possibly not as malignant as the osteosarcoma. The chondrosarcoma generally occurs on flat bones such ribs or skull bones and is not usually found in the limbs. Still, should a chondrosarcoma occur in the limb, treatment recommendations would still include amputation of the affected bone and biopsy of the tissue after amputation would allow for any adjustments in chemotherapy.

SQUAMOUS CELL CARCINOMA:The squamous cell carcinoma is a tumor of the external coating of the bone (called the “periosteum”). This is a very destructive tumor locally but it tends to spread relatively slowly. Again, a bone suspected of malignant tumor should be amputated and the tissue then analyzed and treatment adjustments made thereafter. The squamous cell carcinoma tends not to arise in the same bone areas as the osteosarcoma; it tends to arise in the jaw bones or in the toe bones.

SYNOVIAL CELL SARCOMA: This is a tumor of the joint capsule lining. It’s hallmark is that it affects both bones of the joint. The osteosarcoma, no matter how large or destructive it becomes, will never cross over to an adjacent bone.

FUNGAL BONE INFECTION: Coccidiodes immitis is a fungus native to the Lower Sonoran Life Zone of the South West U.S. It is the infectious agent of the disease called “San Joaquin Valley Fever” or just plain ”Valley Fever.” (More scientifically, the condition is called “coccidiodomycosis.”) In most cases, infection is limited to a few calcified lymph nodes in the chest and possibly lung disease. In some rare cases, though, the fungus disseminated through the body and can cause a very proliferative bone infection. The bone infection of coccidiodomycosis is proliferative and lacks the lytic lesions that are so typical of the osteosarcoma.

The bottom line is that bone malignancy should be treated with amputation followed by adjunctive treatment. What the adjunctive treatment is, depends on what the bone tumor is.

TREATMENT OF OSTEOSARCOMA INVOLVES TWO ASPECTS: TREATING THE PAIN CAUSED BY THE BONE TUMOR AND FIGHTING THE SPREAD OF THE CANCER.

How do we treat the pain?

Keep in mind that dogs are usually euthanized due the pain in the affected bone. Treating the pain successfully will allow a dog to live comfortably.

AMPUTATION OF THE LIMB: Removal of the affected limb resolves the pain in 100% of cases. Unfortunately, many people are reluctant to have this procedure performed due to misconceptions.

• While losing a leg is very handicapping to a human (who only has two legs total), losing one leg out of four does not restrict a dog’s activity level. Running and playing are not inhibited by amputation (after the surgical recovery period is over).
• While losing a limb is disfiguring to a human and has social ramifications, dogs really are not so self-conscious about their image.The dog will not feel disfigured by the surgery; it is his or her owner that will need to adjust to the new appearance of the dog.
• Median survival time for dogs who do not receive chemotherapy for osteosarcoma is 4-5 months from the time of diagnosis regardless of whether or not they have amputation. Do you want your dog’s last 4-5 months to be painful or comfortable?

LIMB SPARING SURGERY: Limb-sparing techniques developed for humans have been adapted for dogs. To spare the limb (and thus avoid amputation), the tumorous bone is removed and either replaced by a bone graft from a bone bank or the remaining bone can be re-grown via a new technique called “bone transport osteogenesis.”The joint nearest the tumor is fused (ie fixed in one position and cannot be flexed or extended.)

• Limb sparing cannot be done if more than 50% of the bone is involved by tumor or if neighboring muscle is involved.
• Limb sparing does not work well for hind legs or tumors of the humerus (“arm” bone.)
• Limb sparing works best for tumors of the distal radius (“forearm” bone).
• Complications of limb sparing can include: Bone infection, implant failure, tumor recurrence, and fracture.

RADIOTHERAPY FOR PAIN CONTROL : Radiation doses can be applied to the tumor in 3 doses (the first two doses 1 week apart, the second two doses 2 weeks apart.) Improved limb function is usually evident within the first 3 weeks and typically lasts 4 months. (Our local oncologists report a range of 0-19 months.) When pain returns, radiation can be re-administered for further pain relief if deemed appropriate based on the stage of the cancer at that time. In the Los Angeles area, a course of 3 doses of radiotherapy typically costs $700-$800.)

• When pain is relieved in the tumorous limb, there is an increase in activity which can in turn lead to a pathologic fracture of the bone.
• Radiotherapy does not produce a helpful response in about 1/3 of patients. (Remember, amputation controls pain in 100% of cases but if amputation is simply not an option, there is a 2 out of 3 chance that radiotherapy will control the pain.)

DRUGS: Analgesic medications such as carprofen, etodolac, aspirin, butorphanol, and fentanyl patches are all available but, unfortunately, they are no match for the pain involved in what amounts to a slowly exploding bone. These medications may be palliative at some stage but generally do not provide meaningful pain relief long term.

How do we treat the cancer?

Osteosarcoma is unfortunately a fast spreading tumor. By the time the tumor is found in the limb, it is considered to have already spread. (Osteosarcoma spreads to the lung in a malignant process called “metastasis.” Prognosis is substantially worse if the tumor spread is actually visible on radiographs in the chest so if chemotherapy is being contemplated, it is important to have chest radiographs taken.

• Chemotherapy is the only meaningful way to alter the course of this cancer.
• Young dogs with osteosarcoma tend to have shorter survival times and more aggressive disease than older dogs with osteosarcoma.
• Elevations of “Alkaline phosphatase,” one of the enzymes screened on a basic blood panel, bode poorly. These dogs have approximately 50% of the survival times quoteed below for each protocol.

CISPLATIN (given IV every 3-4 weeks for 3 treatments)

• The median survival time with this therapy is 400 days.
• Survival at one year: 30-60% (depending on what??)
• Survival at two years: 7-21%
• Giving less than 3 doses does not increase survival time (ie if one can only afford one or two treatments, it is not worth the expense of therapy)
• Cisplatin can be toxic to the kidneys and should not be used in animals with pre-existing kidney disease.

CARBOPLATIN (given IV every 3-4 weeks for 4 treatments)

• Similar statistics to cisplatin but carboplatin is not toxic to the kidneys and can be used if the patient has pre-existing kidney disease.
• Carboplatin is substantially more expensive than cisplatin.

DOXORUBICIN (given IV every 2 weeks for 5 treatments)

• The median survival time is 365 days.
• 10% still alive at two years.
• Toxic to the heart. An ultrasound examination is needed prior to using this drug as it should not be given to patients with reduced heart contracting ability.)

DOXORUBICIN AND CISPLATIN IN COMBINATION (both given IV together every 3 weeks for 4 treatments)

• 48% survival at one year
• 30% survival at two years
• 16% survival at three years.

What is median survival time?

When a population is evaluated statistically, there are a number of ways the central tendency of the group can be evaluated. The “median” is the value at which 50% of the group falls above and 50% of the group falls below. This is a little different from the “average” of the group, though more people are familiar with this term. When one evaluates “median survival times” one is looking at a 50% chance of surviving longer than the median (and a 50% chance of surviving less than the median).

What exactly does chemotherapy put my dog through?

Most people have an image of “the chemotherapy patient” either through experience or the media and this image typically includes lots of weakness, nausea, and hair loss. In fact, the animal experience in chemotherapy is not nearly as dramatic. After the pet has a treatment, one should expect 1-2 days of lethargy and nausea. This is often substantially palliated with medications like Zofran® (a strong antinauseal commonly used in chemotherapy patients). These side effects are worse if a combination of drugs is used but the pet is typically back to normal by the third day after treatment. Effectively, you are trading 8 days of sickness for 6-12 months of quality life. Hair loss is not a feature of animal chemotherapy.

AXIAL OSTEOSARCOMA

While osteosarcoma of the limbs is the classical form of this disease, as mentioned, osteosarcoma can develop anywhere there is bone. “Axial”osteosarcoma is the term for osteosarcoma originating in bones other than limb bones, with the most common affected bones being the jaws (both lower and upper). Victims of the axial form of osteosarcoma tend to be smaller, middle-aged, and females outnumber males 2:1.

In the axial skeleton the tumor does not grow rapidly as do the appendicular tumors thus leading to a more insidious course of disease. The tumor may be present for as long as two years before it is formally diagnosed. An exception is osteosarcoma of the rib, which tends to be more aggressive than other axial osteosarcomas.

Treatment for axial osteosarcoma is similar to that for the appendicular form: surgery followed by chemotherapy. There is one exception, that being osteosarcoma of the lower jaw. Because of the slower growth of the axial tumor and the ability to remove part or all of the jaw bone with little loss of function or cosmetic disfigurement, it has been reported that 71% of cases survived one year or longer with no chemotherapy at all.

This is an article found at marvistavet.com. This is not greyhound specific and is only meant to educate the canine community about Osteo. This information should not be used as or to replacehands on veterinarian advise.

***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care.

If you have a question for Howliweeze email it to

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How not to Become a Member of the Runaway's Club

How not to Become a Member of the Runaway's Club
By Marcia Herman

We have visions of our Greyhounds following us around while we move from place to place, while working in our gardens, walking on the beach, or hiking in the woods. These are lovely fantasies, but they should never become realities unless our loyal, royal companions are in a fenced area or attached to leashes. Even highly-trained working law enforcement dogs have been known to bolt and be killed while on duty. Often, instinct is more powerful than training.

The vision of a Greyhound loose on the beach reminds me of a time when cries of "Suzi's loose! Suzi's loose!" echoed across the beachfront in Dewey Beach, Delaware. Hundreds of Greyhound-owning people who were attending the annual "Greyhounds Reach the Beach" event scampered around looking for her, hoping to catch her. As everyone knows, a loose Greyhound is a Greyhound who likely has a date with injury or death sooner rather than later. In this case, everyone knew Suzi Waddell wasn't in any danger. Suzi was seventeen at the time and was simply tottering around the beach, sniffing the seaweed with her owner at her heels. We were just having fun with Suzi.

On the other hand, here are a few examples of true, not-so-amusing scenarios that occur repeatedly; a couple of these events have happened to our own dogs over the years. Sometimes these loose dogs return home; sometimes they don't - not alive anyway. Even worse, some are never seen again.

"Our foster dog escaped while someone was looking at him and considering adopting him."

"My Greyhound is afraid of thunder. He panicked, jumped through a window and climbed the fence to get away from the storm."

"Our 9 year-old Greyhound got out while chasing a cat (or squirrel, or rabbit, or bird, or you-name-it)."

"Our 4-year-old (or visitor) opened the front door and our Greyhound ran out onto the road."

"Our two Greyhounds were in the back yard doing their business. When I went to bring them inside a few minutes later, they were both gone. The fence gate was open."

"Our mailman rang the doorbell. When I cracked open the door to take the mail, our Greyhound pushed the door open and ran away. I didn't realize that a Greyhound could get through a slightly-opened door that easily!"

"We were walking our dogs when a loose dog charged us. One of our hounds backed right out of his martingale collar - the "safe" kind - and ran away. We found him waiting for us at home a half-mile away. He knew the route home because we walk it every day. His paws were bloody from running on pavement, but he was OK otherwise. Phew!"

"We've always let her out to do her business; we live in the country, after all. She never left the yard before. This time, she ran into the neighbor's driveway and was killed by a delivery truck."

The list of escape scenarios is endless but not to worry. Recognizing that "stuff happens" to even the most careful Greyhound owner, taking a few simple precautions will reduce the possibility of your Greyhound escaping to almost zero. The most common escape route is a door, gate, or window that's slightly opened. Most escapes are made by newly-retired foster or recently-adopted Greyhounds. All these new retirees know is that an open door, window or gate is much the same as the starting gate at the track; they may think that opening means RUN! Fresh off-the-track Greyhounds know nothing about cars, highways, traffic, or even how to get back home if they are lucky enough to be unharmed. To them, "home" is the track kennel. Disoriented Greyhounds whose adoptive owners may not even know their kennel names run full speed to nowhere.

Sometimes Greyhounds who've been in homes for years will decide to run out the door, too. Although these Greyhounds will also be in danger from traffic, they will often know the way home if they've been walked or driven around the neighborhood.

Here are some suggestions for escape-proofing your Greyhound so he or she doesn't become a member of the "Runaway's Club."

Escape-proofing While Outside

As soon as you adopt your hound, have it micro chipped. Tag collars (buckle or breakaway or a loose slip over-the-head type) while in the house or when on the road are added security. Reserve properly-fitted martingale collars for leash use. The extra loop that makes them wonderful for leash-walking is what can make them deadly in the house, crate, or yard. Dogs have been hung by the extra loop when wearing them while no one is supervising them.

Always go into the yard with your new newly-retired Greyhound, even if it's fenced. Every dog is different; you have to watch and learn from each one by observing behaviors. Once you learn what each dog is capable of/interested in doing, especially near the fence, you can proceed with preventing escape by making your yard even more secure if need be.

Fence in at least one yard with a sturdy fence a minimum of 4 feet high; 6 feet is better. Secure even the narrowest openings; Greyhounds can squeeze through unbelievably narrow spaces.

Lock the fence gate with a brass padlock; brass doesn't rust. Keep the key inside your home. Greyhounds are quite capable of flipping up an unlocked chain link gate latch in the blink of an eye. Other slide-and-hook-over latches are available and work well, but a lock is best.

If your dog is a climber or a jumper, avoid chain link fences. Get a high, solid panel fence with no cross members that allow getting a foot up.

If your dog is a climber or a jumper, avoid chain link fences. Get a high, solid panel fence with no cross members that allow getting a foot up.

Keep lawn furniture and equipment away from fences. They make excellent jump-over-the-fence points.

If you have no fence, a leash is mandatory - always, even if obedience-trained. Greyhounds have remarkably poor recall because of their ability to focus on whatever has their attention. Their intelligence and independence can be their downfall when their focus isn't on the owner.

Check to see if your dog's collar is properly fitted. Greyhounds can easily back out of poorly-adjusted martingale collars. The material on properly-fitted martingale collars also stretches over time, so those collars do need to be checked and readjusted periodically.

When walking your hound, place your hand through the leash loop, wrap the leash around your wrist, and hold the leash firmly. Allow a bit of slack between your hand and the dog's neck so the dog will not feel like you have a stranglehold on him. If the hound is startled, hang on. You will not be able to run after and catch your loose Greyhound. If it gets loose, do the opposite of what you want to do; do not chase.

Keep house and vehicle windows opened no more than 6." Greyhounds have been known to escape through partially-opened car and van windows and doors. They can even push house windows open if they get their needle-nose underneath.

Escape-proofing While Inside

Be paranoid about open doors and windows. It takes a split second for a Greyhound - particularly a recently-retired one - to blindly charge out the door or a window because of an interesting new sight, sound or scent.

Be sure children or adults who are not Greyhound-knowledgeable don't open doors leading to the street. Most will not be able to restrain a Greyhound who wants to get out and run.

Be aware of where your dog is whenever anyone opens a door. Front doors are particularly dangerous as they usually lead to an unfenced yard and the street or to a fenced one with an opened gate. A Greyhound nose is very capable of pushing open a door or a gate opened only an inch or a door that has not been clicked shut by the last person going through the door. A gated foyer or vestibule with a second door is ideal if you can arrange that.

Ideally, rooms leading to exterior areas could have half doors that can be shut when people are coming and going. However, some clever Greyhounds can operate door knobs; they grasp and turn them as well as we can! Doors with lever-type handles are a piece of cake for the determined Greyhound. These need to be dog-proofed as well. Child-proof door knob and door lever guards are available in baby and toddler departments at the mall or hardware store.

Workmen need to be as dog-savvy as you are. Many dogs escape while workers go back and forth from the house to their trucks or to their "workshop" in the garage. If they can't be trusted to be as paranoid about open doors are you are, find some workmen who are.

Garage doors need to be kept closed if an interior door leading to it is ajar. Greyhounds have been killed on moving days because of doors and garage doors needing to be open. Kennel your dogs and other pets on moving day.

It sure sounds like Greyhounds aren't much fun if one has to be so careful about them getting loose. But really, once the preliminary Greyhound escape-proofing is done and you've become accustomed to watching for open doors and gates and checking for properly fitted collars, you won't even think about doing it; it will just become second nature to you. By taking a few precautions your Greyhound is highly unlikely to be hurt or lost and you won't ever need to be separated from your fast friend.

Marcia Herman is Editor Emeritus of Celebrating Greyhounds Magazine.

***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care.

If you have a question for Howliweeze email it to

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Greyhounds and Children

Let's talk about greyhounds and children. In 2007, more than 50 % of the returned dogs had an unsavory interaction with a child.

Most retired racing greyhounds have not been around children. Greyhounds have no reason to dislike children and in fact, most greyhounds really seem to enjoy being around them. Until they are accustomed, the activity level of smaller kids may make the dog nervous. While living at the racetrack, greyhounds have their crates, which are only theirs. They don't have to share that space with anyone. They come into a home and they are given a dog bed or in some cases allowed to get on furniture. Soon this area becomes theirs and they can require a transition period to become used to sharing their space. A small child walking over or tripping over a dog can cause an instinctive defense reaction and result in a bitten/snapped at, frightened child. With some stellar monitoring and consistency, children and greyhounds can become wonderful companions.

The following are some general guidelines to help develop a happy relationship:

LET SLEEPING DOGS LIE

- Do not jump on or even pet a sleeping greyhound. Some greyhounds sleep with their eyes open. When a sleeping dog is startled, it may growl or come up with teeth before it is fully awake and realizes that the culprit is its best friend. If you must wake your sleeping greyhound, call its name and have it walk to you.

DO NOT LET YOUR CHILDREN CRAWL UP TO, RUN UP TO, LAY ON, KISS, HUG, PET, JUMP ON A DOG THAT IS LAYING DOWN AND/OR SLEEPING.

Greyhounds do not understand the meaning of a child (children) rushing, crawling, running up to it or trying to kiss or hug it, when it is laying down (even if it is awake!). A dog may choose to get up and walk away, do nothing, growl or it may even snap or bite. Greyhounds sometimes sleep with their eyes open so it is very difficult to tell if one is asleep or awake. ALL of these behaviors are a warning to some degree that the dog does not like what is happening to it and they are trying to tell the child (children) to knock it off in the only way they know how. They may start with simply leaving the area or turning away from the child, this will escalate to a growl or defensive posturing and will then escalate to the point that if it isn't stopped they will bite. All dogs have teeth and they will use them if they feel threatened. It is up to you as the parent to understand the body language of your dog and to enforce the rules of the house with the children so that this type of incident does not occur. Few if any dogs will “just bite” someone. Usually they usually have been giving warning signs for weeks or months before they finally resort to a bite. Greyhounds are VERY docile, for them to resort to biting a person it takes a LOT of stress, ignored warnings and eventually fear for their own safety to make them do it.

PRIVACY & QUIET

- All dogs are entitled to privacy and quiet when they eat and sleep. Children must be instructed to not bother the dog during its “quiet” times. This has to be consistently enforced. The greyhound's crate is his / her “room” and should be respected, they will quickly learn to go there when things get too busy as long as they can count on being left alone while they rest in their crate. If you choose NOT to use a crate, then a room or area of the home should be set aside for the dog as it's private area, this is where their bed should be and they can also be fed in this area.

CRATE

- Do not let your children crawl into the greyhound's crate. Privacy is important. Initially, we recommend that you utilize the crate when your children are actively playing. It is also a good idea to use the crate when children have friends over to play. This way your new greyhound has a chance to experience and get used to children while in the safety and security of his/her crate. The use of a crate or some other method of confinement when you are not DIRECTLY supervising the dog/child interactions is mandatory. A muzzle can also be used. Never leave children and dogs unsupervised.

FEEDING TIME

- Do not let your child take away the dog's food or interfere with its mealtime in any way. If you have very young children, it's recommended that you feed your greyhound in its crate to avoid any chance of a children interfering with him/her while eating.

DOOR BOLTING

- Be extremely cautious about leaving doors and gates open (this goes for car doors also). Greyhounds move so quickly that they will be out the door and down the street in a blink of the eye. Teach your children and their friends about the importance of keeping doors and gates closed at all times. Make sure you have a hold of your greyhound by the collar before any door is opened to let anyone in/out of your house. It is a good idea to actively teach your dog the command for “wait” and use it consistently, this will reduce their desire to bolt through open doors. It can be started with letting them out of their crate and going in their crate and then built upon every day with your potty walks. Make the dog stand and “wait” they are not allowed to pass through the opening without the release command (usually a word like OK is used). If you are going out, attach the leash then say “ok, let's go out”. If you are letting them out of the crate, they must wait even after you open the door until they get the release command “OK, come on out”. The key is to be consistent, reward the positive behaviors and your dog will learn quickly what is expected of him/her.

KINDNESS

- A child old enough to have a dog share their home is old enough to treat it with kindness. If they are unable to understand this, they may not be ready to have a dog as a pet.

FURNITURE

- Dogs should not be permitted on the furniture or to sleep with anyone on their bed for at least 6 months, they should NEVER be permitted to sleep with a child until they have been totally established in the household, this can take up to a year. This is true for any breed of dog, not just a greyhound, to allow them equal status (by letting them sleep with a child) you place them on equal footing which can cause many behavior problems that are avoided completely by removing this temptation.

BACK TO SCHOOL

- We highly recommend dogs that live with children be taken to obedience school by an adult, to learn basic obedience and to aid in the establishment of whom is in charge (you and the other two legged people in your home!). Most basic obedience classes are held in the evening, one class a week for 6 to 8 weeks. Many veterinarians or boarding kennels may also be able to recommend an obedience class.

These are general guidelines and all dog/family relationships are different.

***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care.

If you have a question for Howliweeze email it to

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A Dog's Purpose

A Dog's Purpose (from a 6-year-old.)

Being a veterinarian, I had been called to examine a ten-year-old Irish wolfhound named Belker. The dog's owners, Ron, his wife Lisa, and their little boy Shane, were all very attached to Belker, and they were hoping for a miracle.

I examined Belker and found he was dying of cancer. I told the family we couldn't do anything for Belker, and offered to perform the euthanasia procedure for the old dog in their home.

As we made arrangements, Ron and Lisa told me they thought it would be good for six-year-old Shane to observe the procedure. They felt as though Shane might learn something from the experience.

The next day, I felt the familiar catch in my throat as Belker's family surrounded him. Shane seemed so calm, petting the old dog for the last time that I wondered if he understood what was going on. Within a few minutes, Belker slipped peacefully away.

The little boy seemed to accept Belker's transition without any difficulty or confusion. We sat together for a while after Belker's Death, wondering aloud about the sad fact that animal lives are Shorter than human lives. Shane, who had been listening quietly, piped up, "I know why."

Startled, we all turned to him. What came out of his mouth next stunned me. I'd never heard a more comforting explanation.

He said, "People are born so that they can learn how to live a good Life -- like loving everybody all the time and being nice, right?" The Six-year-old continued, "Well, dogs already know how to do that, so they don't have to stay as long."

• Live simply.
• Love generously.
• Care deeply.
• Speak kindly.
• Remember, if a dog was the teacher you would learn things like:
  • When loved ones come home, always run to greet them.
  • Never pass up the opportunity to go for a joyride.
  • Allow the experience of fresh air and the wind in your face to be pure Ecstasy.
  • Take naps.
  • Stretch before rising.
  • Run, romp, and play daily.
  • Thrive on attention and let people touch you.
  • Avoid biting when a simple growl will do.
  • On warm days, stop to lie on your back on the grass.
  • On hot days, drink lots of water and lie under a shady tree.
  • When you're happy, dance around and wag your entire body.
  • Delight in the simple joy of a long walk.
  • Be loyal.
  • Never pretend to be something you're not.
  • If what you want lies buried, dig until you find it.
  • When someone is having a bad day, be silent, sit close by, and nuzzle them gently.
  • ENJOY EVERY MOMENT OF EVERY DAY!
• ENJOY EVERY MOMENT OF EVERY DAY!

HAPPY NEW YEAR !

***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care.

If you have a question for Howliweeze email it to

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"Trust: The Deadly Disease"

Many of us have read this article as well as heard stories about what can happen when your dog goes off lead. Human nature is to think "this wont ever happen to us" so I am posting the article "Trust, a deadly disease" to remind us, both old and new adopters that even the simplest thing like going to the mailbox or the car can end up tragic. 

Trust: The Deadly Disease

There is a deadly disease stalking your dog. A hideous stealthy thing just waiting for it's chance to steal your beloved friend. It is not a new disease, or one for which there are inoculations. The disease is called TRUST...

You knew before you ever took your Greyhound home that it could not be trusted. The people who provided you with this precious animal warned you, drummed into your head that a newly rescued racer may steal off counters, destroy something expensive, chase cats and must NEVER be allowed off his lead !!

When the big day finally arrived, heeding the sage advice, you escorted your Greyhound to his new home, properly collared and tagged, the lead held high in your hand. At home the house was "doggie proofed". Everything of value was stored in the spare bedroom, garbage stowed on top of the refrigerator, cats separated and a gate placed across the door to the living room. All windows and doors had been properly secured and signs placed in strategic points reminding all to " CLOSE THE DOOR"

Soon it becomes second nature to make sure the door closes a second after it is opened and that it is securely latched. "DON'T LET THE DOG OUT" is your second most verbalized expression. ( The First is NO ! ) You worry and fuss constantly, terrified that your darling will get out and disaster will surely follow. Your friends comment about who you love most, your family or the dog. You know that to relax your vigil for even a moment could loose him to you forever.

And so the weeks and months pass, with your Greyhound becoming more civilized every day, the seeds of TRUST are planted. It seems that each new day brings less mischief, less breakage. Almost before you know it your racer has turned into an elegant, dignified friend.

Now that he is a more reliable, sedate companion, you can take him more places. No longer does he chew the steering wheel when left alone in the car. And darned if the cake wasn't still on the counter this morning. And. Oh yes, wasn't that the cat he was sleeping with so cozily on your pillow last night? At this point you are beginning to become infected, the disease is spreading its roots deep into your mind.

And then one of your friends suggests obedience training. You shake your head and remind her that your dog might run away if allowed off lead, but you are reassured when she promises that the events are held in a fenced area. And wonder of wonders he did not run away, but came every time you called him!

All Winter long you go to weekly obedience classes. After a time you even let him run loose from the car to the house when you get home. Why not, he always runs straight to the door, dancing a frenzy of joy and waits to be let in. Remember, he comes every time he is called. You know he is the exception that proves the rule. ( And sometimes late at night, you even let him slip out the front door to go potty and then right back in.) At this point the disease has taken hold, waiting only for the right time and place to rear its ugly head.

Years pass-it's hard to remember why you ever worried so much when he was new. He would never think of running out the door, left open while you bring in the packages from the car. It would be beneath his dignity to jump out of the car window while you run into the convenience store. And when you take him for those wonderful long walks at dawn, it takes only one whistle to send him racing back to you in a burst of speed when the walk comes too close to the highway. ( He still gets into the garbage but nobody is perfect.)

This is the time that the disease has waited for so patiently. Some times it only has to wait a year or two, but often it takes much much longer.

He spies the neighbors dog across the street, and suddenly forgets everything he ever knew about not slipping outdoors, jumping out windows, or coming when called due to traffic. Perhaps it was only a paper fluttering in the breeze, or even just the sheer joy of running.

Stopped in an instant. Stilled forever-your heart is broken at the sight of his still, beautiful body. The disease is TRUST. The final outcome, HIT BY A CAR.

Every morning my dog,Shah bounced around off his lead exploring. Every morning for seven years he came back every time he was called. He was perfectly obedient, perfectly trustworthy. He died fourteen hours after being struck by the car. PLEASE do not risk your friend or your heart. Save the trust for things that do not matter.

I would like to offer two additional accounts regarding dangers of unfenced areas.

The first account is really a basic tragic accident due to an improperly fitting collar that COULD have been avoided. The owners actually had their dog on lead but unfortunately they were using a traditional flat buckle collar on their Greyhound. The dog became frightened and simply backed right out of her collar. She took off at top speed. Before the owners could even get close to her she had run headlong into traffic and was killed instantly by a car. This is one of the reasons that we insist on using the MARTINGALE or HUMANE CHOKE Greyhound collar.

The second account involves too much trust and a lack of common sense. The owners lived in the country. Their home was surrounded by woods and they were well off any major highway. They had their dog only about 3 weeks when the call we hate to hear the most came. "Our Greyhound Is Lost" The owners do not have a fenced yard but had sworn to keep their Greyhound on lead anytime it was out of doors. Upon further questioning, we learned they had quit using the leash after the first week because the weather was cold, and it was early morning when the dog had to go out. They had simply been letting her out the back door, waiting for her to do her business and then calling her back inside. "She ALWAYS came when she was called", the woman lamented. They thought it was safe to let her out without a leash because they lived so far from a high traffic road. After all she was only off lead for such short bits of time ! Unfortunately the little Greyhound bounded off into the woods on this particular morning. Perhaps she heard a squirrel rustling about in some nearby leaves, or smelled a rabbit, but whatever the reason she had run off and they could not find her. Our hopes of finding her safe and sound faded a little more with each passing day, with no sign of the pretty little female greyhound.

After several weeks our worst fears were confirmed, There was a call from a very nice man who had been walking through the woods with his son when they discovered the still, cold body of the small, dead Greyhound. He got our number from the collar ID tag. She was found many many miles from her home.

Why did she run off this time when she had been so reliable before? Why did she not come racing back when her family called out to her? Who knows? What we DO know is that ultimately, DOGS WILL BE DOGS. No matter how much or how long you train them there may come a point when their instincts will overcome any learned behavior., PLEASE do NOT be fooled into a false sense of security with your Greyhound. Take the time, make that little extra effort, to ensure your Greyhound will always be safe. Remember They are depending on YOU.

***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care.

If you have a question for Howliweeze email it to

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Why pets do not make good gifts

We all know the holiday season is a hectic time of year. With numerous visits from family and friends, the house is filled with excitement. For a dog or a cat, being placed in this situation can be confusing and frightening. What the animal needs is a stabile environment to begin its new life.

A gift animal can easily be neglected amidst all the excitement of the holidays. Animals - especially puppies and kittens - need special care and attention when moved to a new environment and, unfortunately and unintentionally, during the holiday season pets can be quickly forgotten.

First-time guardians can be unprepared for the dramatic changes an animal can make within the household. Impulse buying at Christmas often overlooks the long-term commitment involved in owning a pet. The commitment of care must extend throughout the animal's lifetime, which will be years - even decades for some. Since an addition to the household will affect the entire family, everyone should be consulted. Another point to consider is that most adults prefer to choose their own pet to match their lifestyle and personality as they are ultimately responsible for the pet not a child, even a teenager.

Give a "gift card" for a pet once the holidays are over and the reality of pet ownership can be thought through.

***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care.

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What to put in a first aid kit for your pet

Here is a list of some basic items that can help you get a handle on a minor injury or control a big one for a trip to the emergency vet.

• antibacterial soap or cleanser
• 4x4 gauze pads
• Kerlix for wrapping
• antibiotic ointment or cream
• hydrocortisone cream
• wound flush
• scissors
• tweezers ( for splinters )
• tape
• self adhering ace type wrap
• muzzle
• super glue ( for little cuts or abrasions)
• Immodium
• Pepto ( for upset tummy )
• Benadryl
• coated aspirin

***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care.

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Common Household Poisons

There are many things around the house that can be toxic. This list is by no means includes all toxic materials, just some of the most common. Should pets consume any of the listed items or something not meant for animal consumption, please contact your veterinarian immediately.

Chemicals

• Antifreeze - Produces drunken behavior, increased thirst and urination, vomiting, seizures, and panting.
• Acids (bleach, some cleaners) - swallowed- drooling, crying, pawing at the mouth, abdominal pain. On the skin - crying, rolling around and licking.
• Lead (golf balls, ceramics, linoleum, old paint and its dust) - seizures, abdominal pain, hysteria, lack of coordination, chewing fits.
• Pest bait - bleeding from body openings, bloody vomit and stool, staggering, thirst, confusion, strong garlic smell, death.

Foods

• Bakers chocolate - nausea, vomiting, hyperactivity, coma. This is a pure chocolate with a high cocoa content not a Hershey's Kiss which is cocoa cut with other ingredients. Poison by chocolate is directly related to amount ingested, size of the dog and purity of the chocolate.
• Grapes and raisins - vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, lack of appetite. As little as one serving of raisins and 1 lb. of grapes has caused renal failure in small dogs.
• Onions and garlic - vomiting, diarrhea, lack of appetite, labored breathing and finally reddish urine. Raw, cooked and dehydrated onions can lead to hemolytic anemia. I wouldn't worry about small quantities of onions in their food or in table scraps, as it takes nearly 2 lbs. of raw onions to poison a 44 lb. dog.
• The seed/pits of cherries, apples and peaches

Plants

Azalea, Caladium, Holly, Wisteria, Lily, Mother-in-law tongue, Tulip bulbs, Lily of the Valley, and Oleander.

Ingestion of any of these plants can be toxic to your dog. Contact your vet immediately should your dog (or cat) exhibit any unusual/sickly behavior and has been exposed to any of these plants or substances.

Mushrooms

Because a toxic mushroom could be growing right alongside a nontoxic one, identifying what type the animal ingested can be tricky. Because of this, it is advised that pet owners remove any mushrooms growing in their yard. Digging up the mushroom is the preferred method of removal as shattering the mushroom will scatter the spores and produce more. If your dog becomes ill from eating mushrooms bring one with you should the dog require emergency treatment.

***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care.

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Nails

Many of us are afraid to clip our dogs nails. Could be black nails, a less than cooperative dog or its just not your thing. Keeping the nails at the shortest length possible is important for lots of reasons. Long hooked nails can easily get caught in a rug, something in the yard or in between deck slats resulting in injury to the nail and possibly worse. Very long nails that reach the floor bends the toe upward in an unnatural position, which can cause your dog pain, not to mention the tapping sound! A simple play movement can cause injury to you or another dog if the nails are too long. If the tip is skinny and pointy, the nails are too long. Some dogs just have long quicks and in this case take them as close as you can get them.

When clipping nails you can just take off the point or just the end until you get accustomed to doing it. In addition to clippers, I use a small hand Dremel that is battery powered with a 60-grit tip. Hold the toe and move the Dremel from bottom to top with just a bit of pressure in a smooth motion until the nail is where you want it. This works fast and self cauterizes should you get close to the quick. If your dog is wiggly, have someone pet and talk to the dog. If its anxious you can try to cover the face with a hand towel, so they can't see what is going on. Some give the dog a spoon of peanut butter so they are busy trying to un-stick their mouths therefore cooperating better.

Pet stores sell many products to stop the bleeding should you clip the quick. If you don't have such a thing, you can use cornstarch or flour. Once I had to use fish fry, it worked.

***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care.

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When is it time to let go?

One of the most difficult aspects of owning a dog is the realization that they will not live as long as we wish they would. Unfortunately, in many situations we are faced with the difficult decision to help our pet along to the bridge. With such an emotional issue it is sometime helpful to have some guidelines to help get through this time.

1. How is the dog's overall quality of life? Can he/she still eat play and potty on their own? Are there more good days/hours than bad? Do they still recognize you and your family and truly enjoy your companionship?
2. Which issues lessen the quality of his life and can treatment of one or more of those issues improve his quality of life? Sometimes in older dogs plagued with multiple issues, a simple treatment of one problem can significantly increase the overall quality of life. Severe arthritis pain can be lessened with pain medication and therefore increase the dogs ability to get around. Talk to your vet frankly about each problem individually and what treatments are available for each problem.
3. Can you adjust your environment to keep him comfortable and allow to function more easily day to day?
4. Do you have the physical and financial resources to care for a very sick dog?
5. Have you discussed the pets condition with family members or friends for moral support? Sometimes talking with other pet owners can spark new ideas to help keep your pet more comfortable. Utilize your adoption group and the Internet to research options.
6. Contact teaching facilities. There are a few that will help with treatment options via Internet consults and even one that will provide chemo for cancer stricken dogs free of cost.

Many pet owners find it easier to make the euthanasia decision once all treatment options and outcomes have been carefully considered. Do whatever you need to do, that will allow you to trust yourself to be your pets loving and sensible voice.

Two of our volunteers that I am aware of have lost greyhounds in the last month or two. We send our deepest condolences to both families. May your hearts heal soon.

***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care.

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Thunderstorm phobia?

A fair number of greyhounds seem to suffer from the fear of thunder (except for Dax who knows he WILL one day catch it and until then will bark at it). Reactions vary greatly from some mild anxiety to severe panting, shaking and or pacing. Some dogs refuse food and may seek refuge in a seemingly safe place such as a closet or bathroom. I have one that is very afraid and depending on the frequency of the thunder and loudness of the storm, I have had to use Benadryl or an all-natural calming blend of herbs to help him deal with it. Most of the time not making a fuss and allowing them a safe, cozy place to retreat will work fine and once the rain stops so will the anxiety. Many times just being in the same room with their person will decrease the stress. If they don't want to eat then they will eat when the storm has passed. The biggest problem is not wanting to potty outside during the scary storm so they either hold it ... or not! Gotta love em.

***these hints are to be used as general guidelines and in no way are meant to replace veterinary care.

If you have a question for Howliweeze email it to

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What to feed your dog?

Dog food is a hot topic these days with all of the options available. It seems that lots of greyhound owners cook for their dogs. Chicken, pork roast or beef cooked slowly and long is a popular addition to regular kibble. One of our volunteers whips up a yummy sounding pasta dish daily for their pups. I personally feed a decent kibble and sometimes add some cheese, yogurt or maybe a spoon of mixed veggies and everyone is healthy.

Kibble choices are endless with many touting a